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3rd April 2008, 11:00 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Guest | A suggestion On Apr 3, 3:24 pm, Bruce in Bangkok <b*paige*125@g*mail.com> wrote:
> I would like to make the suggestion that individuals who pose
> questions, especially complex questions like the recent Yanmar
> governor problem, be encouraged to post the results. What did he/she
> do and what was the result.
Sorry not to report back. I certainly would have posted with glee if
I had fixed it. All I ended up doing was taking a small access port
off that though which I could see, but not remove and measure the
springs on the throttle side of the assembly. It all looked lovely in
there but there was a little stiffness on the throttle crank itself.
So I lubed its axle and worked it a bit. I got one disconcerting
"thunk" out of the mechanism, put it all back together and ran it and
got the same failure then ran it again and it worked fine... By
looking at it I did convince myself that the fault was not in the
setting of the torque limiter. The current plan is to take off the
gear casing next time I pull the motor and inspect the bushings and
springs... Meanwhile I will continue to work around it. Many thanks
for your help and mea culpa for my silence.
Cheers,
-- Tom. | |
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3rd April 2008, 11:05 PM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Guest | A suggestion On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 22:36:04 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore" <gashmore@cox.net>
wrote:
>With that I will bid you gentlemen adieu. I will send invitations to the
>launching party privately.
I look forward to that and will surely attend if at all possible.
Unfortunatlely "r.b.c" seems to have acquired a lot of the old "asa"
crowd who were never well known for good manners. | |
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4th April 2008, 02:19 AM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Guest | A suggestion
"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote:
> read a reference to one of your posts, quoted in part by Roger, that
> sounded as though the RPM was only unstable at low RPM, I remember
> something about 1,000 RPM.
Most diesels need to idle in the 1300-1500 RPM area in order to
generate enough waste heat to prevent
"wet-stacking" which will cause glazing of the cylinder walls,
creating a VERY expensive repair.
Lew | |
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4th April 2008, 02:35 AM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Guest | A suggestion Glenn:
Like TV, if you can wade through the BS, there's an occasional gem to
be found here that makes checking in from time-to-time worthwhile.
Your recent sewing machine thread (!) is a fine example, and the
replies to same seem to prove that there are many who visit here that
have a lot to contribute
Would hate to see you vanish...
MW
Los Angeles | |
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4th April 2008, 03:27 AM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Guest | A suggestion On Apr 3, 7:56 pm, Bruce in Bangkok <b*paige*125@g*mail.com> wrote:
>...there are zillions of Yanmar engines and I'd like
> to know how to fix that problem.
Me, too!
> I read a reference to one of your posts, quoted in part by Roger, that
> sounded as though the RPM was only unstable at low RPM, I remember
> something about 1,000 RPM.
No, it is generally stable at low to medium rpms (say ~850-1100). It
may hunt and/or loses power at higher rpms when loaded... Typically
it get progressively better as it gets warmer. I think everyone has
had a couple of swings at this and I'm not sure if there is much to be
gained by going over it all again. But I am listening. And, I will
be sure to report back if I fix it.
-- Tom. | |
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4th April 2008, 05:01 AM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Guest | A suggestion
"Lew Hodgett" <lewhodgett@> wrote in message
news:iMjJj.10032$s27.7854@trnddc02...
>
> "Bruce in Bangkok" wrote:
>
>> read a reference to one of your posts, quoted in part by Roger, that
>> sounded as though the RPM was only unstable at low RPM, I remember
>> something about 1,000 RPM.
>
>
> Most diesels need to idle in the 1300-1500 RPM area in order to generate
> enough waste heat to prevent
> "wet-stacking" which will cause glazing of the cylinder walls, creating a
> VERY expensive repair.
Much better to cut out prolonged idling and get some load on sooner.
Start up, and by the time you have checked the exhaust for cooling water,
gone forward and cast off the mooring ropes the engine is ready to go.
In other words, just long enough to spread some oil around inside the
engine.
If you cannot get load on for some time then stop the engine until you are
ready. | |
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4th April 2008, 03:43 PM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Guest | A suggestion On Fri, 4 Apr 2008 11:49:03 -0700, "Capt. JG" <jganz@sailnow.invalid>
wrote:
>I don't know about most, but my guess is that a substantial portion of
>truckers are independents who likely do pay for maintenance. You're right
>about the warm-up... the engines are already hot from long driving. I can't
>recall if the driver ever shut the thing off in 3000 miles except to stop
>for fuel or a bio stop.
We once had a post here from a guy who was responsible for diesel
maintenance on a fleet of trucks at a gold mine in northern Canada.
He said that basically the trucks idled all winter, over 3,000 engine
hours each. He said that by spring the engines were mostly junk if I
recall correctly.
In contrast, a heavy duty diesel in normal service, and with good
maintenance, will go 5,000 to 10,000 hours between overhauls. | |
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4th April 2008, 04:20 PM
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#8 (permalink)
| | Guest | A suggestion
"Wayne.B" <waynebatrecdotboats@m> wrote in message
news:1o0dv3ha7m20sqdg3ci2v7h9vpcsmbpnhm@...
> We once had a post here from a guy who was responsible for diesel
> maintenance on a fleet of trucks at a gold mine in northern Canada.
> He said that basically the trucks idled all winter, over 3,000 engine
> hours each. He said that by spring the engines were mostly junk if I
> recall correctly.
>
> In contrast, a heavy duty diesel in normal service, and with good
> maintenance, will go 5,000 to 10,000 hours between overhauls.
That figures.
Many years ago my employers sent me to Canada in the winter to find out how
they managed to start diesels on oilrigs in winter. I found that basically
they never stopped them and even moved them from place to place still
running. I learned some drastic and time consuming methods they had devised
to start an engine that had been allowed to get really cold with the oil in
the sump turned to thick goo. | |
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5th April 2008, 12:22 PM
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#9 (permalink)
| | Guest | A suggestion
"Bruce in Bangkok" <b*paige*125@g*mail.com> wrote in message
news:hupev3p70pslbv17pie1or635vi6a58t05@...
> >>That figures.
>> Many years ago my employers sent me to Canada in the winter to find out
>> how
>>they managed to start diesels on oilrigs in winter. I found that basically
>>they never stopped them and even moved them from place to place still
>>running. I learned some drastic and time consuming methods they had
>>devised
>>to start an engine that had been allowed to get really cold with the oil
>>in
>>the sump turned to thick goo.
>>
> I never worked up north but we did do some bids with one of the
> Canadian drilling companies and I had assumed from what they told me
> that all the winterized rigs had water and oil heaters installed in
> the engines. Certainly the floor and mast are protected and heated
> well enough that you can work there.
>
Thet may well do so now. Like I said it was _many_ years ago and things were
more basic then.. | |
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5th April 2008, 10:18 PM
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#10 (permalink)
| | Guest | A suggestion
"Bruce in Bangkok" <b*paige*125@g*mail.com> wrote in message
news:i2cgv31trdvcl454aospijf0mbnfukpuoi@...
> Over in the dry (N.E. monsoon) season you motor when there isn't any
> wind, which is usually when the land breeze dies about 11:00 every
> morning.
>
Yah, like you really need to motor when tied up to the dock for the past two
years. Nice try, Brucie Boi!
Wilbur Hubbard | |
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