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Old 20th April 2004, 07:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
Claude Marcil
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Default RV fridge problem

We have a Dometic fridge RM 3862 that works on both 120V electric and LP.

It works fine on electric and also on "LP when we're immobile".

Whenever we travel, the Check light comes on and the cooling stops as if the
wind would have something to do with it.

We just got it cleaned by a "pro shop" and it does the same thing.

Anybody with an idea ???

Thanks,
 
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Old 20th April 2004, 08:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
Dons
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Default RV fridge problem

I had one in a tt that had such large fins in the ref outside door that I
had to make a tin shield to go from the forward edge of doorway about 6"
high and about 6" long. That made the wind stay out of the burner area but
still have vent in the comp. Is there a pilot height adjust to make pilot
use more fuel
 
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Old 20th April 2004, 10:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
Jon Porter
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Default RV fridge problem

"Claude Marcil" <acmarcil@m> wrote in message
news:78ihc.12957$CO3.679114@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> We have a Dometic fridge RM 3862 that works on both 120V electric and LP.
>
> It works fine on electric and also on "LP when we're immobile".
>
> Whenever we travel, the Check light comes on and the cooling stops as if

the
> wind would have something to do with it.
>
> We just got it cleaned by a "pro shop" and it does the same thing.
>
> Anybody with an idea ???


Some thoughts:
- Thermocouple might not be adjusted over the flame correctly. It could also
have buildup on it that needs to be scraped off.
- There's a loose connection that "breaks" while travelling causing power to
the propane side of the fridge to quit.
- It's blowing out while under way. You can check that one by having a peek
at the burner. It's probably one screw holding the burner cover in place,
remove it and the cover slides out.
 
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Old 21st April 2004, 12:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
Farley @nonymous
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Default RV fridge problem

John Degennaro wrote:


> I found these links by typing "Dometic troubleshooting manuals. Anyway,
> mine needed a new control board. $128.00. Works as good as now.


I had a problem with my control board, only I was a bit luckier
cost-wise. A less-than-proficient RV service company working on my
generator managed to screw up the reefer control board. The company
wanted to charge me $150 for what they damaged. I studied the schematic
a bit and changed out a $0.78 transistor. It's worked fine ever since.

BTW, a letter of complaint to the franchise (Cummins, who owns Onan, and
authorizes/rates service franchisees) got half of my bill for the genny
repair refunded.



--
"Farley" is a nom de plume. There, I've hammered two camps in one blow.
:)
 
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Old 21st April 2004, 12:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
D0N ßâiley
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Default RV fridge problem

I dealt with this problem quite a bit last year.

I wound up replacing the thermocouple (under $20) at local
RV place.

The old thermocouple would output ~18millivolts at rest (barely
enough to keep the pc board on). It should be around 25millivolts.

The thermocouple sends this signal to the board to let it
know the flame is on. anything under 16-17 millivolts
and the board will shut the gas off. You can imagine
what a little wind will do to an already undervoltage
thermocouple.

I cleaned and reset the old thermocouple and got the voltage up to
19 and sometimes 20millivolts. Still not enough. I replaced the
thermocouple and havnt had a problem since.

Cheap fix.

Oh yea, This was after replacing the $175.00 board.

db

"Claude Marcil" <acmarcil@m> wrote in message
news:78ihc.12957$CO3.679114@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> We have a Dometic fridge RM 3862 that works on both 120V electric and LP.
>
> It works fine on electric and also on "LP when we're immobile".
>
> Whenever we travel, the Check light comes on and the cooling stops as if

the
> wind would have something to do with it.
>
> We just got it cleaned by a "pro shop" and it does the same thing.
>
> Anybody with an idea ???
>
> Thanks,
>
>
 
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Old 22nd April 2004, 12:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
John Degennaro
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Default RV fridge problem

"Farley @nonymous" <getupand@em.net> wrote in message
news:4085F53D.30208@em.net...
> John Degennaro wrote:
>
>
> > I found these links by typing "Dometic troubleshooting manuals.

Anyway,
> > mine needed a new control board. $128.00. Works as good as now.

>
>
> I had a problem with my control board, only I was a bit luckier
> cost-wise. A less-than-proficient RV service company working on my
> generator managed to screw up the reefer control board. The company
> wanted to charge me $150 for what they damaged. I studied the schematic
> a bit and changed out a $0.78 transistor. It's worked fine ever since.
>
> BTW, a letter of complaint to the franchise (Cummins, who owns Onan, and
> authorizes/rates service franchisees) got half of my bill for the genny
> repair refunded.
>
>
>
>
> --
> "Farley" is a nom de plume. There, I've hammered two camps in one blow.
> :)
>


Very good. I still have the old board, and after reading your post Farley,
I went out and looked the board over. I couldn't see any problems with
anything. Checked the thing from top to bottom. Oh well. Happy to hear
about your good forture though.
John
 
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