Some details of the 2AZ-FE engine

Gonna write this stuff down and post it so I don't lose it. Had
to wade through a lot of pages to find it. The 5th Generation Camry's
2AZ-FE engine (an advanced powerplant, by the way) is
the same engine that was used in the '01 Highlander SUV.
5th Generation Camrys cover Model Years '02 - '06.

The cylinder block is made of aluminum alloy. It uses aluminum
pistons, high-strength steel connecting rods and caps, forged steel
crankshaft, and, IIRC aluminum camshafts. The VVT-i only works
on the intake camshaft, not the exhaust camshaft. It varies
the timing of the intake valves. There are two intake valves per
cylinder and two exhaust valves per cylinder. Having two of
each increases the total port area, so more air can flow into
and out of the combustion chamber. As the manual's authors
write, "Intake and exhaust efficiency has been increased due
to the larger total port areas."

The cylinder head cover (not to be confused with the cylinder
head) is made of magnesium alloy for lighter weight. I think
cylinder head cover is synonymous with "valve cover," but the
Camry manual refers to it as the "cylinder head cover."

Since the manual doesn't mention what the cylinder head, itself,
is made of, I will assume iron, but just an assumption.

The cylinder head gasket, used between the aluminum engine block
and the (iron?) cylinder head is a steel-laminate type of
material. Any concern about electrolysis taking place between
the steel-laminate and aluminum?

When the service and repair manual says the dry weight of the
engine is 267 pounds, does that include the crankcase, crank,
cylinder head, and valve head with camshafts--or does the
weight only include the engine block without crankcase
and cyclinder head, etc.?

The crankshaft and camshafts are connected by a timing chain,
not a belt.

The oil pump is located behind the timing chain cover at the
front bottom of the engine, even lower than the crankshaft. The oil
pump has
its own short section of chain that's connected to the
crankshaft. Couldn't tell from the picture if this is a second,
dedicated chain, or just part of the larger chain that ascends to
the camshafts. Double overhead cams, don't ya know (DOHC) :-)

If I had to guess, I'd say the oil pump has its own dedicated
short chain that's separate from the timing chain, ie., camshaft
chain..

Ed White wrote:
> Advanced, in what way? Lots of comparable engines from many manufacturers.
==========

Well, the manual, or something I read, said it was "advanced." I don't
think it was a case of self-promotion by the manual ;-)

You wrote, "I have a hard time thinking of any engine that
requires routine valve adjustment as advanced."

Well, it's not exactly routine. The scheduled maintenance
guide says to inspect the valve clearance after 120,000
miles or 12 years. 12 years is a long time.

When they say valve clearance, I guess they mean the
gap between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of
the lifter and/or tappet?

Anyone know if "lifter" and "tappet" are the same thing?

By the way, it's a shimless system.

Yes, the 2AZ-FE is still used today. I saw an '07 or
or '08 Solara with the 2AZ-FE, and the '08 Camry
owner's manual I bought off Ebay says the '08 Camry
also uses the 2AZ-FE. It's a very good engine. Toyota's
not gonna junk it anytime soon, I would guess.

By the way, that '08 Camry manual I got off Ebay says
the engine's drain-and-fill oil capacity with filter is
4.5 quarts. That's a whole 0.5 quarts more than my
'06 Camry manual says to use (4 quarts).

I thought maybe the new Camry might be using a bigger
filter, but without the filter the '08 Camry manual
says to use 4.3 quarts, again a half-quart more than
the 3.8 quarts called for in my '06 manual without filter.

Does anyone know why the two Toyota manuals recommend
different oil amounts for the same 2AZ-FE engine? That's
a big half-quart difference.

I have always put in 4.25 quarts, instead of the 4.0
quarts recommended in my manual, but do you think I should
increase it to 4.5 quarts, which would equal the
amount recommended in the new '08 manual?

Frothing probably wouldn't be a problem with that small
amount extra, but you never know.

Did I say frothing? I meant foaming--oil foaming.

The 2AZ-FE engine in both the '06 and '08 Camrys
is 2.4 liters.

Ray O wrote:
>
> Some older Toyota engines (and current domestic engines) have
> a single overhead cam, or SOHC.
========

Single overhead cam (SOHC)!!!! Well, I guess that's better
than using pushrods and rollers.

Built_Well wrote:
> Ray O wrote:
>> Some older Toyota engines (and current domestic engines) have
>> a single overhead cam, or SOHC.
> ========
>
> Single overhead cam (SOHC)!!!! Well, I guess that's better
> than using pushrods and rollers.

WHY?
Push rod engines have been around a LONG time. Toyota even agrees as
they built more than a few. (take a look under the Tundra V8s hood)

--
Steve W.

Ray O wrote:
> "Built_Well" <Built_Well_Toyota@m> wrote in message
> news:899682da-08dc-42cd-9f1b-2051047899f4@x35g2000hsb..com...
> <snipped>
> >
> > Does anyone know why the two Toyota manuals recommend
> > different oil amounts for the same 2AZ-FE engine? That's
> > a big half-quart difference.
>
> The different oil capacities can be due to different capacities in the oil
> pans, which are due to different shapes.
>
> >
> > I have always put in 4.25 quarts, instead of the 4.0
> > quarts recommended in my manual, but do you think I should
> > increase it to 4.5 quarts, which would equal the
> > amount recommended in the new '08 manual?
> > =======================
>
> No. Stick to the recommended amount in your manual.
>
> > Frothing probably wouldn't be a problem with that small
> > amount extra, but you never know.
>
> It depends on how excided you get when you add the extra oil.
>
> The oil is not going to foam with an extra half quart.
> --
>
> Ray O
>
============================

Yeah, from what I've read online from reliable sources, an
extra 1/2 quart won't induce foaming, but a quart or more
is pushing it.

On Jul 15, 10:41 am, Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B <Tru...@e86.GTS> wrote:
> On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 20:08:50 -0700, Built_Well wrote:
> > The cylinder head cover (not to be confused with the cylinder
> > head) is made of magnesium alloy for lighter weight. I think
> > cylinder head cover is synonymous with "valve cover," but the
> > Camry manual refers to it as the "cylinder head cover."
>
> Yeah, that's the valve cover...
>
>
>
> > Since the manual doesn't mention what the cylinder head, itself,
> > is made of, I will assume iron, but just an assumption.
>
> Toyotas have been using aluminum heads for as long as I can remember. My
> first Corolla, a '74, had an iron block and aluminum heads, which worked
> well for them, but was a fatal combination for certain Chevy (VEGA) models...

IIRC it was backwards... the Vega had an aluminum block with an iron
head. This was back in the day before the Nikasil and similar
processes were perfected, and I am guessing that simple piston/bore
wear was the cause of most of the mosquito fogging action that the
Vegas were famous for. I remember when I was a kid the neighbors
across the street had one and it would lay one heck of a smokescreen.
Was an attractively styled little car but the engines were definitely
a weak link.

I believe that John DeLorean addressed some of the engineering mishaps
in the Vega's development in his book, but it's been years since I
read it so I'm a little furry on the details.

nate

On Jul 15, 7:47 am, "C. E. White" <cewhi...@remove>
wrote:
> "Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B" <Tru...@e86.GTS> wrote in message
>
> newsan.2008.07.15.14.41.47.208604@e86.GTS...
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 20:08:50 -0700, Built_Well wrote:
>
> >> The cylinder head cover (not to be confused with the cylinder
> >> head) is made of magnesium alloy for lighter weight. I think
> >> cylinder head cover is synonymous with "valve cover," but the
> >> Camry manual refers to it as the "cylinder head cover."
>
> > Yeah, that's the valve cover...
>
> >> Since the manual doesn't mention what the cylinder head, itself,
> >> is made of, I will assume iron, but just an assumption.
>
> > Toyotas have been using aluminum heads for as long as I can
> > remember. My
> > first Corolla, a '74, had an iron block and aluminum heads, which
> > worked
> > well for them, but was a fatal combination for certain Chevy (VEGA)
> > models...
>
> Actually Vegas had aluminum blocks and cast iron heads! One of the
> stangest combinations ever. The original Vega block was the linerless
> aluminum type and was die case with an open top deck. The aluminum
> alloy had a lot of silicon in it .The theory was that the aluminunm
> would wear away slightly, exposing the silicon surface, which would
> prevent (or at least slow down) further bore wear. The block was very
> light and not particulalry stiff which is why they used a cast iron
> cylinder head to provide the stiffness absent from the block. I
> suppose the test engines all worked well. Unfortunately, in the real
> world, things did not work so well. The whimpy blocks couldn't take
> any "normal" abuse. The slightest overheating would lead to rapid bore
> wear and significant oil consumption. Hard driving would cause block
> distortions which also led to rapid bore wear and significant oil
> consumption. Poor maintenance practices led to rapid bore wear and
> significant oil consumption. Etc. Essentially driving the car led to
> rapid bore wear and significant oil consumption. But it often was not
> much of a problem since rust usually ate the body away before oil
> consumption was too bad. Body rustwas not a problem restricted to
> Vegas by the way. Toyotas of the era were at least as prone to rusting
> away.
>
> BTW, Porsche and Mercedes use the linerless aluminum blocks that GM
> tried on he Vega. But even today, you don't want to overheat an engine
> using that technology.
>
> Ed

Thanks for confirming that my memory isn't completely shot

FWIW the all-aluminum engine in my 944 leaks more oil than it burns
AFAICT. I seem to have a penchant for attracting vehicles that aren't
known for gasket integrity

Rust seems to be a common theme with cars from the mid-70s and older.
The same neighbors that had the Vega also had a Volare wagon, the
front fenders were rusted through in only a couple of years. My dad's
Oldsmobile fared a little better, but it still had rusty fenders,
possibly because of some collision repair early in its life (was
sideswiped in a snowstorm on a windy country road by another driver
who lost control of her car) Once the Germans started using
galvanized body panels and that waxy undercoating the problems pretty
much went away (my mom's Golf lasted almost 20 years in semi-rural PA
before any significant corrosion showed up) I don't know about newer
American cars but I would assume that they've taken similar measures.

nate

On Jul 15, 1:54 am, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
> "Steve W." <csr684...m> wrote in message
>
> news:g5hcd3$lmc$1@aioe.org...
>
> > Built_Well wrote:
> >> Ray O wrote:
> >>> Some older Toyota engines (and current domestic engines) have
> >>> a single overhead cam, or SOHC.
> >> ========
>
> >> Single overhead cam (SOHC)!!!!  Well, I guess that's better
> >> than using pushrods and rollers.
>
> > WHY?
> > Push rod engines have been around a LONG time. Toyota even agrees as they
> > built more than a few. (take a look under the Tundra V8s hood)
>
> > --
> > Steve W.
>
> The production Tundra's 4.7 and 5.7 liter V8's are both DOHC designs.  The
> NASCAR Craftsman Series "Tundras" use pushrod engines ;-)
>
> AFAIK, Toyota does not sell any pushrod engines in North America any more..
>
> People have probably spent millions of hours debating the benefits of
> pushrods vs OHC engines, and IMHO, each style has benefits over the other in
> certain applications.

The main advantage to a pushrod engine is packaging. I believe that
was one of the reasons given for GM for sticking with a pushrod design
for their newest small-block V-8s; they needed them to fit under the
low hoodline of a Corvette.

nate

I think it was Buick. Had an Aluminium engine in something like '62.
V8, I think it was 300 ci. I did a brake job on one of those cars once
and really liked driving it. So when I gave it back to the girl that
owneed it I tried to explain that it was of utmost concern that this
car NEVER be over heated. Always check coolant and have a GOOD
radiatoer, fan belt, water pump, etc....One year later she was trying
to sell it to me because "We think it's only the head gasket". Right.
Aluminium warps really good.

disston