Head gasket set brand recommendations & ?'s re: 89 Cressida head install.

-Any suggestions on brands? Is whatever comes from Autozone, Discount
Auto, Napa going to work fine? Any brands to definitely avoid?
Apparently the shop that built my engine a couple of years ago used
Victor Reinz.

-What about new head bolts? Do the sets normally come with bolts? Or
are there better options I should pursue?

-I feel like I should upgrade my torque wrench from the inexpensive
bar type I got years ago. I see Home Depot has Husky click torque
wrenches for around $70, do you feel it'll do the job? I gather Snap-
On's run around $200. I'm sure they're good but would like to save a
few bucks if possible to do so and get good functionality on a one-off
project.

-I have the shop manual for this Cressida. Should the torqueing order
it shows be fine? In a previous thread, someone said they should be
final torqued to 70 ft/lbs. Anyone disagree with this?

What would you consider a reasonable cost range for a shop to charge
to disassemble, inspect, do a valve job, resurface and reassemble the
heads on a carry-in basis?

Any other recommendations/tips will be appreciated. I've installed
heads before but not on aluminum heads.

Thanks.

Doc wrote:
> -Any suggestions on brands? Is whatever comes from Autozone, Discount
> Auto, Napa going to work fine? Any brands to definitely avoid?
> Apparently the shop that built my engine a couple of years ago used
> Victor Reinz.

Fel Pro is good.

> -What about new head bolts? Do the sets normally come with bolts? Or
> are there better options I should pursue?

Depends on the application.

> -I feel like I should upgrade my torque wrench from the inexpensive
> bar type I got years ago. I see Home Depot has Husky click torque
> wrenches for around $70, do you feel it'll do the job? I gather Snap-
> On's run around $200. I'm sure they're good but would like to save a
> few bucks if possible to do so and get good functionality on a one-off
> project.

Home Depot, Sears or Loews should all be fine.

> -I have the shop manual for this Cressida. Should the torqueing order
> it shows be fine? In a previous thread, someone said they should be
> final torqued to 70 ft/lbs. Anyone disagree with this?

Go with the shop manual. Also read the instructions that come with the
gaskets.

> What would you consider a reasonable cost range for a shop to charge
> to disassemble, inspect, do a valve job, resurface and reassemble the
> heads on a carry-in basis?

$100-200.

> Any other recommendations/tips will be appreciated. I've installed
> heads before but not on aluminum heads.
>
> Thanks.
>

On May 24, 8:05 pm, Jeff <kidsdoc2...@m> wrote:
> Doc wrote:

> > What would you consider a reasonable cost range for a shop to charge
> > to disassemble, inspect, do a valve job, resurface and reassemble the
> > heads on a carry-in basis?
>
> $100-200.

The local machine shop I talked to today was talking around $250 -
300. It's got 24 valves.

Doc wrote:
> On May 24, 8:05 pm, Jeff <kidsdoc2...@m> wrote:
>> Doc wrote:
>
>>> What would you consider a reasonable cost range for a shop to charge
>>> to disassemble, inspect, do a valve job, resurface and reassemble the
>>> heads on a carry-in basis?
>> $100-200.
>
>
> The local machine shop I talked to today was talking around $250 -
> 300. It's got 24 valves.

That's seems pretty reasonable for 24V.

jeff

On Thu, 24 May 2007 16:58:41 -0700, Doc wrote:

> -Any suggestions on brands? Is whatever comes from Autozone, Discount
> Auto, Napa going to work fine? Any brands to definitely avoid? Apparently
> the shop that built my engine a couple of years ago used Victor Reinz.
>
> -What about new head bolts? Do the sets normally come with bolts? Or are
> there better options I should pursue?
>
> -I feel like I should upgrade my torque wrench from the inexpensive bar
> type I got years ago. I see Home Depot has Husky click torque wrenches for
> around $70, do you feel it'll do the job? I gather Snap- On's run around
> $200. I'm sure they're good but would like to save a few bucks if possible
> to do so and get good functionality on a one-off project.
>
> -I have the shop manual for this Cressida. Should the torqueing order it
> shows be fine? In a previous thread, someone said they should be final
> torqued to 70 ft/lbs. Anyone disagree with this?
>
> What would you consider a reasonable cost range for a shop to charge to
> disassemble, inspect, do a valve job, resurface and reassemble the heads
> on a carry-in basis?
>
> Any other recommendations/tips will be appreciated. I've installed heads
> before but not on aluminum heads.
>
> Thanks.

HKS Metal headgasket. Google "1989 Supra Headgasket"
These last a long time. Also, check the SOGI website. 59ft/lbs appears to
be not enough (was spec'd for an asbestos HG)

"Doc" <docsavage20m> wrote in message news:1180051121.467566.50550@q69g2000hsb. ...
> -Any suggestions on brands? Is whatever comes from Autozone, Discount
> Auto, Napa going to work fine? Any brands to definitely avoid?
> Apparently the shop that built my engine a couple of years ago used
> Victor Reinz.

I'm all for the OEM gasket kit. That way you have the other 20-25 seals
you should replace. But Toyota reemed me for $329.00.


>
> -What about new head bolts? Do the sets normally come with bolts? Or
> are there better options I should pursue?

There reusable


>
> -I feel like I should upgrade my torque wrench from the inexpensive
> bar type I got years ago. I see Home Depot has Husky click torque
> wrenches for around $70, do you feel it'll do the job? I gather Snap-
> On's run around $200. I'm sure they're good but would like to save a
> few bucks if possible to do so and get good functionality on a one-off
> project.
>
> -I have the shop manual for this Cressida. Should the torqueing order
> it shows be fine? In a previous thread, someone said they should be
> final torqued to 70 ft/lbs. Anyone disagree with this?

Everybody and there brother seems to agree that 58lbs was not tight
enough. (mine are 70)


>
> What would you consider a reasonable cost range for a shop to charge
> to disassemble, inspect, do a valve job, resurface and reassemble the
> heads on a carry-in basis?
>
> Any other recommendations/tips will be appreciated. I've installed
> heads before but not on aluminum heads.
>
> Thanks.

Finding a cause for the BHG helps. Loose head bolts seems to
be a common problem for example.
Replacing all those small coolant hoses or at least the hard to get to ones
might be a good idea.
If the head is warped so are the cam journals.

GL
Dan

On May 25, 12:21 am, Nick Bourne <"nabourne at tpg.com.au"> wrote:

> > -I feel like I should upgrade my torque wrench from the inexpensive
> > bar type I got years ago.


> If you bar type still pulls correct torque why do you fell it needs
> replacing.

How would I know?


> Also check the block deck for any out of square measurements.

How do you do this?

Doc wrote:

> -I feel like I should upgrade my torque wrench from the inexpensive
> bar type I got years ago. I see Home Depot has Husky click torque
> wrenches for around $70, do you feel it'll do the job? I gather Snap-
> On's run around $200. I'm sure they're good but would like to save a
> few bucks if possible to do so and get good functionality on a one-off
> project.
>

If you are only going to use a torque wrench every great while, and you
have the access to read it, stick with the beam type wrench. The only
way it can go out of calibration is physical damage to the beam. I
check my snappy clickers against my old beams to see if the clickers
need calibration.

Doc wrote:
> On May 25, 12:21 am, Nick Bourne <"nabourne at tpg.com.au"> wrote:
>
>>> -I feel like I should upgrade my torque wrench from the inexpensive
>>> bar type I got years ago.
>
>
>> If you bar type still pulls correct torque why do you fell it needs
>> replacing.
>
>
> How would I know?

Specialist tool shops that service tools should have a calibration
device that can be used to check it, they usually will do it for free if
you catch them on a good day or for a small fee, say $5, as the check
procedure only takes a couple of minutes.


>
>
>> Also check the block deck for any out of square measurements.
>
>
> How do you do this?

The best way I have found is a good set square with a straight edge and
a set of feeler gauges. just put the straight edge on the surface of the
block and uses the feeler gauges to see if there is a gap or if it
changes. Start be going widthways across the block then lengthways down
the block. Then check across the bores by going diagonally from bolt
hole to bolt hole down the block. Only go across the far corners you
need to make sure the surface is as clean as you can before starting. In
the manual there should be a procedure and clearances for checking the
head, and I use the same for the block deck. The clearance for my 6M
engine was 39 thou.

On Thu, 24 May 2007 16:58:41 -0700, Doc wrote:

> -Any suggestions on brands? Is whatever comes from Autozone, Discount
> Auto, Napa going to work fine? Any brands to definitely avoid? Apparently
> the shop that built my engine a couple of years ago used Victor Reinz.
>
> -What about new head bolts? Do the sets normally come with bolts? Or are
> there better options I should pursue?
>
> -I feel like I should upgrade my torque wrench from the inexpensive bar
> type I got years ago. I see Home Depot has Husky click torque wrenches for
> around $70, do you feel it'll do the job? I gather Snap- On's run around
> $200. I'm sure they're good but would like to save a few bucks if possible
> to do so and get good functionality on a one-off project.
>
> -I have the shop manual for this Cressida. Should the torqueing order it
> shows be fine? In a previous thread, someone said they should be final
> torqued to 70 ft/lbs. Anyone disagree with this?
>
> What would you consider a reasonable cost range for a shop to charge to
> disassemble, inspect, do a valve job, resurface and reassemble the heads
> on a carry-in basis?
>
> Any other recommendations/tips will be appreciated. I've installed heads
> before but not on aluminum heads.
>
> Thanks.

From the Supras BBS:

My 'gasket set' turned out to be a complete overhaul set, so it has abunch of o rings, and all
of the valve stem seals and things that I was thinking that I might do as well. I guess that
explains why it cost more than I thought it would, besides typical Toyota Parts counter
pricing.

My ARP head bolt set turned out to be a stud set. I guess I'll just have to settle for ARP
studs instead of bolts. (Gee, tough luck, huh?)

I'm just going to put in a Toyota OEM head gasket. I ran out of budget before getting to an
HKS head gasket. I figure though that the OEM gasket should be fine with adequate torque.
Also, since I'm not machining the head or block (Well, not PLANNING to) I figure the OEM
gasket might have a better chance at sealing with whatever minor imperfections might be
present. If needed though, I have clients with machine shops, and I might be able to ask a
favor...
___________________________

The "stud set" refers to the items that a lot of people with 7M-GEs use
instead of bolts. You insert the studs and use nuts to hold the head on. I
guess they're reusable with new nuts. Frankly, if I'm going to all that
trouble, I'm gonna try to make sure it's done right the first time, and
just use bolts (the bolts are $6-9 each depending where you get them...)