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Toyota Cars Forum Toyota cars, automobiles, and vehicles: information, tips, advice, reviews, and discussion. See also our -CAMRY- and -PRIUS- forums.

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Old 31st July 2004, 01:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
Mack Twamley
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Default Tried to buy the loss leader in San Diego County

<MikeHunt@lycos.com> wrote in message news:410BCBDB.98F0F60A@lycos.com...
> You are correct the ONLY price that really counts is the drive
> home price, not the so called selling price. Next time add the
> total amount of any legitimate government taxes and licensing and
> transfer fees, to the advertised price then write a check for
> that amount. Hand it to the sales Manager and tell him to call
> you when the vehicle
> is ready or to mail back your the check, then leave.
>
>
>
> mike hunt

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You'd write a check for over $13k and give it to the dealer without getting
the car keys in your hand, and a proximity to an actual automobile, with
ownership papers in your hand as well?
Sorry, I don't trust dealers anywhere NEAR that much! I always feel as if
I'm a step away from a Persian market when I set foot on a dealer's lot.
 
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Old 1st August 2004, 01:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
Joseph Oberlander
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Default Tried to buy the loss leader in San Diego County

Rich Lockyer wrote:

> On 31 Jul 2004 05:51:12 -0700, mpearl@grossmont.k12.ca.us (Michael
> Pearlman) wrote:
>
>
>>Am I a fool to think I can buy this 2005 car at this price?

>
>
> Yes.
>
>
>>Someone please tell me how if it is possible.

>
>
> They'll come up with something. They'll tell you that the only way to
> buy is CASH (as in actual bills) or dealer financing.
> You can also USUALLY buy the loss leader by allowing them to hose you
> on dealer-installed accessories. They are normally only making a
> couple of hundred on a sale, so if you buy a $500 roof rack and $120
> floor mats, that covers their allowed profit margin.


Or just buy cash. Walk in, write a check, and walk out.(credit
unions are good for this)

> Dealer financing allows them to hose you at 18% interest, of which
> they get a significant kickback from the financier.
>
> If you DO try cash, they'll come up with something... the VIN number
> may not be an exact match for the ad, or the MSRP may not be the same.


Why you always quietly locate the exact model on the lot first. Sneaky
works
 
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Old 1st August 2004, 03:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
Mack Twamley
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Default Tried to buy the loss leader in San Diego County

"HachiRoku" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in message
newsan.2004.08.01.09.00.30.804186@ae86.GTS...
> I would go back there and demand to see the sales manager (have Toyota's
> Customer service number punched up on your cell phone!). Tell him you want
> a price RIGHT NOW, or not only are you calling Toyota USA, but also the
> Better Business Burea in your area.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You might as well threaten them with calling your clergyman and your
girlfriend! Toyota USA would probably agree with you and then call back
the dealer and congratulate him for creative marketing.
and the Better Business Bureau is toothless. dealers know how to skate
within a 16th of an inch of the far side of the law, and do it every day.
I remember once hearing about a customer who said he'd really 'skinned' a
dealer on a car deal. The dealer replied " yeah, a fellow who buys one car
every four years really skinned me, a guy who sells 140 - 180 cars A
MONTH....."
 
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Old 2nd August 2004, 11:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
MajorDomo
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Default Tried to buy the loss leader in San Diego County

Personally I never did it with a car because I've always known
how to deal. When I was in retail we always accepted ANY no
trade deal that earned the franchise a profit. Acquiring and
keeping customers was our goal. Do that well, and the profits
will take care of themselves. Turning ones inventory in three
months is paramount to any viable dealership. I did it several
time with cycles
when I was buying Jap bikes, however. I was never able to find
the dealer mark up on bikes, but may suspicion was it was 25 to
30%. I would make an offer based on that assumption that allowed
for a $200 profit. Write the check and go home. Never failed,
within a day or two they would call telling me to come pick up my
bike. I had five children and I'll guess I bought around 15
Honda motorcycles that way. When we switched to Harleys in the
early nineties it didn't work. I had to pay their price until I
became friends with a dealer. Even then I only received a $1,000
discount on 15K to 20K bikes.

mike hunt

"Philip" wrote:
>
> MikeHunt, I like that method! You didn't dream that one up by
> yourself, who played that one on you? Did it work?
> --
>
> - Philip @ Maximum Torque RPM
>
> MikeHunt@lycos.com wrote:
> > You are correct the ONLY price that really counts is the drive
> > home price, not the so called selling price. Next time add the
> > total amount of any legitimate government taxes and licensing and
> > transfer fees, to the advertised price then write a check for
> > that amount. Hand it to the sales Manager and tell him to call
> > you when the vehicle
> > is ready or to mail back your the check, then leave.
 
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Old 4th August 2004, 06:07 AM   #5 (permalink)
Joseph Oberlander
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Default Tried to buy the loss leader in San Diego County

HachiRoku wrote:

> Gee, the last 'loss leader' I bought was a 1989 Honda Accord LXi, with a
> bra, 15" wheels, AC, AT, PW PDL PM tilt, cruise, black package (an option)
> and a few other goodies. Price out the door: $12,999. Price for an Accord
> 4 door, less the bra and the 15" pkg: 13,100.
> Price for an Accord DX (Carb, not F.I.), no pw,pdl,ac 13" wheels: $12,490.
>
> Of course, the special was (1) only! I just happened to get there as they
> were putting it on the floor!


SOmetimes you do get lucky.
 
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Old 4th August 2004, 12:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
Gmlyle
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Default Tried to buy the loss leader in San Diego County

"HachiRoku" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in message > >

>In any case, they never actually LOOSE money on anything they sell...


I normally don't worry about grammar errors, but if you're going to SHOUT
you should use the correct word.

"Lose" is the opposite of gain or profit.

"Loose" is the opposite of bound or restricted.

In order to "loose" money they would have to physically throw it away
 
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Old 4th August 2004, 07:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
Scott in Florida
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Default Tried to buy the loss leader in San Diego County

On Wed, 4 Aug 2004 09:52:04 -0700, <Gmlyle@scvnet.com> wrote:

>
>"HachiRoku" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in message > >
>
>>In any case, they never actually LOOSE money on anything they sell...

>
>I normally don't worry about grammar errors, but if you're going to SHOUT
>you should use the correct word.
>
>"Lose" is the opposite of gain or profit.
>
>"Loose" is the opposite of bound or restricted.
>
>In order to "loose" money they would have to physically throw it away
>


and if you are doing that...let us know where you are so we can get
all that loose change...

--

Scott in Florida
 
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Old 4th August 2004, 09:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
Gord Beaman
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Default Tried to buy the loss leader in San Diego County

Scott in Florida <NotInThisLifetime@nope.ucan't> wrote:

>On Wed, 4 Aug 2004 09:52:04 -0700, <Gmlyle@scvnet.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>"HachiRoku" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in message > >
>>
>>>In any case, they never actually LOOSE money on anything they sell...

>>
>>I normally don't worry about grammar errors, but if you're going to SHOUT
>>you should use the correct word.
>>
>>"Lose" is the opposite of gain or profit.
>>
>>"Loose" is the opposite of bound or restricted.
>>
>>In order to "loose" money they would have to physically throw it away
>>

>
>and if you are doing that...let us know where you are so we can get
>all that loose change...


and if I get a bunch of it I'll loose an email of thanks toward
you
--

-Gord.
(use gordon in email)
 
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