Dome Light and Doors

Nerd wrote:
> '93 Camry XLE V6, 113,500 miles.
>
> Sometimes my dome light works when I open the door and sometimes it
> won't. The dome light will only work with the driver's front door (and
> only sometimes) - it never works with the passenger door or the two back
> doors. Also, the red lights at the bottom of the doors do not light up
> when you open them. The driver's side used to, but it doesn't now.
> Also, now the door ajar light isn't working. Now if I am outside of the
> car when the door is locked, if I pull the door handle, the dome light
> comes on. This sounds kind of complicated to me. What do you think?
>
> Thanks.

I think you have two sets of switches: one set in in the door
frames, and those are simple plunger switches that open when the door
isn't pressing on them, turning on the light. They are stuck or broken.
You also appear to have handle-activated switches, probably to make it
easier to enter the car, and to make sure no one is hiding in it.
Someone else should be able to confirm this. The LE models have only the
door frame switches.

Nerd wrote:
> '93 Camry XLE V6, 113,500 miles.
>
> Sometimes my dome light works when I open the door and sometimes it won't.
======
Here's what I've done on the '94 Camry and it seems to have worked
well for the pin type switches in the door frame that activate the
dome light.
If I press in on the switch and then slide my finger off to the side
so it snaps back out, the light would come on. Actually, just doing
that a few times may work for a while.
So next I gently pulled back the rubber cover, but there's a strap
holding it in the center. Think you need a 10 mm socket to remove the
bolt, then the switch and cover can be removed together, then the
cover slides off easily.
I think I just sprayed the switch with WD-40 without removing the wire
from the body, then reinstalled after manually operating the switch a
few times to confirm proper operation.
Think I had to do this twice on one switch but other than that, no
problems since.
184,000 miles now.
Mine's the LE - no extra illumination in the doors, so can't help you
there.

Leftie wrote:
> WD-40 isn't a long-lasting lubricant. It's good for freeing up
> parts, but doesn't stick around for ages. Plus it's somewhat toxic. If
> the switches aren't rusted, light machine oil or one of the 'miracle
> lube' oils might work better in the long run.
=========
That's true about WD (water dispersant) - 40, but we're not really
looking for long term or even lubrication for the door switch
electrical contacts.
Just something to get them working again.
I just reached for something that seemed to have a chance and it did
work.
I also have some electrical contact cleaner from CRC, that might be
even better.
The main thing is to remove, inspect the switch, and clean the
contacts.
There's enough contact surface on the electrical parts that touch so
it's not really critical, just need to be moved around some then
reassembled.
Could even touch them up with fine emery cloth I suppose