Rear block drain 99 Camry V6

I can see front block drain.
I would like to know if rear block drain 99 camry v6 is reachable from
above, or do I need to lift car to get at it ?

Never tried opening the rear drain. The front one should get another 2
qts or so out. So didn't bother to spend the time.

wp51dos wrote:
> I can see front block drain.
> I would like to know if rear block drain 99 camry v6 is reachable from
> above, or do I need to lift car to get at it ?

antifreeze replacement went well.

thanks for help.

So what brand of antifreeze did you use? oem red? oem pink? or the new
Prestone All-Makes? For my own references. Thanks.

wp51dos wrote:
> antifreeze replacement went well.
>
> thanks for help.

johngdole@m wrote:
> So what brand of antifreeze did you use? oem red? oem pink? or the new
> Prestone All-Makes? For my own references. Thanks.
>
>
> wp51dos wrote:
> > antifreeze replacement went well.
> >
> > thanks for help.

used prestone.

did not remove thermostat.

dreained radiator and front block drain.

put hose in hole where radiator cap was.

ran tap water slowly withe radiator drain closed and block drain open.

ran motor 15 min with heater on.

put in prestone flush....15 min

drained.

added like so

7 oz antifreeze plus 5 oz distilled water till full.

BINGO

wp51dos wrote:

> used prestone.
>
You folks are free to use whatever you wish, but as far as I am
concerned nothing enters the cooling system but Toyota coolant and
distilled water.
Under this regimen, I've seen Toyota radiators that are absolutely like
new at nearly 230,000 miles, whereas using Prestone I've replace three
radiators in another vehicle, and heading for a fourth, but I switched
to Toyota coolant and distilled water at the last water pump change.

> did not remove thermostat.

For the small cost of a new genuine Toyota thermostat, I replace them
when the timing belt is changed.

>
> dreained radiator and front block drain.
>
> put hose in hole where radiator cap was.

If you think about it,
1) You really cannot guarantee the correct mixture ratio once tap
water is introduced.
2) You'll never get all of the tap water out of the system.

>
> ran tap water slowly withe radiator drain closed and block drain open.
>
> ran motor 15 min with heater on.
>
> put in prestone flush....15 min

Flush compounds are corrosive. With aluminum radiator and head, this is
a questionable practice. If the cooling system is drained and re filled
regularly, flushing should never be required to keep the cooling system
in excellent operating condition.
I'm reluctant to alter anything about the Camry cooling system. The
temperature gauge never moves above just below the mid point even
idling in very hot weather, climbing long grades, or running the air
conditioning, plus the fans only rarely come on, and then only for a
very short period of time, and there is only the tiniest bit of
contamination in the bottom of the coolant recovery bottle when I rinse
it out.
I've never seen a cooling system work so flawlessly, plus I believe
that by altering or neglecting cooling system care, the temperature
sensor accuracy can be reduced and their effective life shortened.

wp51dos wrote:
> ran tap water slowly withe radiator drain closed and block drain open.
> ran motor 15 min with heater on.

This is what's traditionally done with domestic big blocks. But I am
not sure about using tap water in any of today's aluminum
engine/cooling system because of all the minerals in tap water.

> put in prestone flush....15 min
> drained.

Usually needed only in neglected cooling systems. Prestone has a
non-acidic "cleaner" and heavy duty "flush". I don't use this because
getting it all out is not easy. So the best way to clean a cooling
system is keeping it clean from the start. But if you have to then you
have to.

The new non-Dexcool Prestone Extended LIfe All-Makes doesn't appear to
contain silicates. Silicates are hard on the pump seals. So I don't
think the new Toyota Pink premix (organic acid hybrid) has any
advantage over the new Prestone.

The new Prestone meets ASTM 3306 and 4985 for light duty auto and heavy
duty diesel engines. ASTM places max corrosion rate at 1mg/cm^2/week.


> added like so
> 7 oz antifreeze plus 5 oz distilled water till full.

7 qts 5 ozs I hope. That's a good amount out of the system. Keep an
eye on it for a few heating/cooling cycles as the air gets boiled out
of the mixture.

Daniel wrote:
> Under this regimen, I've seen Toyota radiators that are absolutely like
> new at nearly 230,000 miles, whereas using Prestone I've replace three
> radiators in another vehicle, and heading for a fourth, but I switched
> to Toyota coolant and distilled water at the last water pump change.

The old green Prestone has silicates in it. But even for domestic iron
blocks the green Prestone should be used with distilled water and not
tap water.

Silicates grind the water pump seal and cause it to fail early, and
while effective against cavitation corrosion they get used up fast. I
didn't have corrosion problems with the ol' green on domestics (but
water pumps were regulars at 80-90K miles), that's why I am willing to
try the new Prestone Extended LIfe if it doesn't have silicates that
grind the pump seals.

The new toyota pink organic acid coolant is premixed with water but
sells $15-18 a gallon. I don't think it has any advantage over the new,
non-silicated, non-borate Prestone, when both meet ASTM 3306 and 4985
corrosion standards, which is 1mg/cm^2/week.

What you see in the bottom of your reservoir tank is probably the
result of corrosion with Toyota coolant, the 1mg/cm^2/week allowed by
ASTM standards.