1994 Toyota Camry tail lights

[jhhlive]

'94 Camry, auto, 4cyl. Main tail lights are out (both sides). Both rear
side markers work OK. Looked at fuse #26, 15amp in Instrument Panel & it
looks good. If pulled the rear side markers go out. I'm not getting any
dash light warning (actually don't expect one for this problem). Bulbs
verified good.
Any assist appreciated.
John

[jhhlive]

Additional info:

From the manual - Fuse 26. Tail 15 A: Tail lights, parking lights, license
plate lights, instrument panel lights, rear light failure warning system.

From ...Reliability Ratings - MSN Autos
A common problem on this vehicle is failure of the Tail Light Failure
Sensor. The cost to repair the Tail Light Sensor is estimated at $140.00
for parts and 32.50 for labor. All prices ...

[Travis Jordan]

> Any assist appreciated.

Don't know about the '94 Camry, but the previous model had a tail light
failure relay mounted in the trunk (LH quadrant under the trim) and that
relay frequently went bad. The most common failure mode was a cold
solder joint, field repairable.

HTH.

[Daniel]

1994 Camry has a wiring harness located along the left side trunk hinge
that flexes every time the trunk is opened or closed.
Over time, the wires fracture internally, or break.
First time I noticed this, my son was putting school books in the trunk
and as he opened the lid, the dash warning light went off.
I carefully sliced open the protective sheathing and discovered two
questionable wires. One had a kink in it that broke in my hands with
slight pressure.
So I bought a soldering gun (you need a fair amount of heat - soldering
iron didn't work for me) and soldered in repairs.
Two years later problem resurfaced.
This time I wound up replacing all (five I think) wires. "Wound up" is
an appropriate pun, because for each, I took a length of wire and
coiled it around a wrench handle - to give it flexibility like a coiled
phone cord before soldering each in place.
Now I have a nice "flexy" connection at that hinge that should be semi
permanent.

[Daniel]

Couple more details:
Use shrink wrap insulation over the soldered joints with a hair dryer
to heat activate them and avoid shorts in your finished project.
Use plastic cable ties, or short lengths of wire twisted around the
cables to secure them - transferring the flex to the newly coiled
sections.

diy cautionary note:
shrink wrap tubing goes on _before_ you solder the connections :?)