Cobra Trailer brakes

Anybody know where to source Cobra trailer brake shoes, return springs
& grease seals.

>
>Anybody know where to source Cobra trailer brake shoes, return springs
>& grease seals.

We didn't drive with the hand brake on, did we?
:>)
JJ Sinclair

r.barry@ (R Barry) wrote in message news:<3880a424.0407112326.7114fb55@ com>...
> Anybody know where to source Cobra trailer brake shoes, return springs
> & grease seals.

Eastern Sailplane
M&H soaring
DG USA
LS Canada (Hollestelle)
Rex Mayes
Regards AS

>
>J.J.
>Let me put it this way, I definetly didn't leave the house with the
>hand brake on

Didn't mean to make light of a real potential problem, but I did recognize the
list of parts that needed replacing. I once had a Komet hand brake that would
pop on if I looked side-ways at it. A little bump and the gas strut would go
over-center and, well you know the rest. I would tie it down just to prevent
its self-initiated action.
JJ Sinclair

J.J.
I know you were trying to make light of the situation and I didn't
take the comment ofensivly. I found a brake shop in Riverside that
will turn the drums reline the shoes, they have the seals in metric.
They havn't located a perfect match for the return springs yet, close
but not exact. The bearings were in good shape not blued or chipped
and the same with the races. I'll look closer tomorrow. In the
meantime I've been watching awsome Q's and lenticular clouds over the
Big Bear and San Gabriels and can't get the trailer to roll!!
Russ

Tom Serkowski wrote:

>
> In the US, chains are required to attach the trailer to the tow
> vehicle. I have the chains a bit longer than the brake actuation
> cable, so if the hitch comes off the ball, the cable will actuate the
> brake, and the chains will keep the brakes-on trailer attached to the
> vehicle.

That sounds like a good plan, especially since many/most US folks have
inadequate chains. Until you've seen a trailer connected to the tow
vehicle by only the chains, you have no idea how violent the swerving
and bucking can be. Having the brakes applied should dampen it considerably.

Has anyone had a trailer come off the ball while hooked up like Tom
describes, and how did it work out?

--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA

I use the same setup, but have elected to satisfy myself
with theoretical rather than empirical proof.

9B

At 04:00 15 July 2004, Eric Greenwell wrote:
>Tom Serkowski wrote:
>
>>
>> In the US, chains are required to attach the trailer
>>to the tow
>> vehicle. I have the chains a bit longer than the
>>brake actuation
>> cable, so if the hitch comes off the ball, the cable
>>will actuate the
>> brake, and the chains will keep the brakes-on trailer
>>attached to the
>> vehicle.
>
>That sounds like a good plan, especially since many/most
>US folks have
>inadequate chains. Until you've seen a trailer connected
>to the tow
>vehicle by only the chains, you have no idea how violent
>the swerving
>and bucking can be. Having the brakes applied should
>dampen it considerably.
>
>Has anyone had a trailer come off the ball while hooked
>up like Tom
>describes, and how did it work out?
>
>--
>Change 'netto' to 'net' to email me directly
>
>Eric Greenwell
>Washington State
>USA
>
>

On the subject of the safety chains, I've noticed that the metal tab
attached to the front underside of the trailer that anchors one end of
the chain doesn't appear to be that strong. It looks to me like if
the trailer came off the ball, the chain would yank that tab right off
the trailer...

Paul Repacholi wrote:

>>Has anyone had a trailer come off the ball while hooked up like Tom
>>describes, and how did it work out?
>
>
> You cross the chains over. Left chain to right shakle on the tow bar,
> and visa versa. This keeps the trailer centred when it comes off the
> tow ball. Bit of noise, and slow down *SLOWLY*. You dont want your
> trailer chewing on the boot!
>
> If you rub the chains straight, it can whip around like a demeted dog!

I've seen this advice many times in the RV group, but the alleged
purpose is always to the tongue off the pavement, without much comment
of reducing disconnected stability. Perhaps keeping the tonque off the
pavement increases the stability of the combination, even it the people
repeating the advice don't realize it.

So, two questions now:

1) Has anyone had a trailer come off the ball while hooked up like Tom
describes (chained and with handbrake cable connected), and how did it
work out?

2) has anyone had a trailer come off the ball with the chains crossed,
and how did it work out?

--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA

"Eric Greenwell" <flyguy26e@charter.netto> wrote in message
news:10fbvhii9g86694@corp..com...
> Tom Serkowski wrote:
>
> Has anyone had a trailer come off the ball while hooked up like Tom
> describes, and how did it work out?
>
>

I have had two trailers come off the ball over the years. The first was
with a trailer with NO brakes. After hooking up, the trailer was driven at
least a half mile over a very rough dirt road leaving the airport (the old
Marfa airport). And then it did not come off until 30 - 40 miles. The
second was with a trailer that had a cable actuated brake. Again, a rough
dirt road was used to exit the airport. After about 10 miles the trailer
came loose. The brake did get set, but not strongly (lack of adjustment for
previous wear).

The solution for both cases was the same. I was able to feel that the
trailer had come loose. In a motor home this might not be possible. I then
slowed the car until the trailer came into contact with the rear bumper.
The car was then slowly braked to a safe stop. The trailer stayed stable
while trying to "push" the car (both cases).

This procedure may scratch the rear of the car, but, that is much better
than scratching the sides and top in a roll over. And is much preferable to
having the trailer break away and possible go into another car.

Duane