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Thread: RV: New Magic Chef Oven Won't Light

  1. #1
    Lone Haranguer
    Guest Lone Haranguer's Avatar

    Default RV: New Magic Chef Oven Won't Light

    Jenny6833A wrote:
    > A few months ago, we had a new Magic Chef propane stove installed in
    > our RV. The oven was difficult to light from the very beginning. It
    > now won't light at all.
    >
    > Originally, I was told to
    >
    > 1) Turn the oven knob to the Pilot position.
    >
    > 2) Light my lighter.
    >
    > 3) Push the oven knob in and light the pilot light while continuing
    > to push in the knob.
    >
    > 4) Keep pressing on the knob for at least 15 seconds, then let go
    > of the knob. The pilot light would stay on.
    >
    > That didn't work in real life. As soon as I let go of the oven knob,
    > the pilot light went out. Both propane regulators are OK. I was then
    > told I needed to hold the oven knob longer because the new (non-
    > mercury) thermostat was slower in warming up. I was supposed to hold
    > the knob in for one minute. That, supposedly, was normal.
    >
    > However, in the days that followed, the pilot light would not stay on
    > when I let go of the oven knob after one minute. I gradually had to
    > hold the oven knob in longer and longer. Now, the pilot light won't
    > stay on after three minutes of pushing on the oven knob. The manual
    > is no help.
    >
    > Is my oven lighting procedure wrong?
    >
    > Is the thermostat faulty?
    >
    > Is the oven knob faulty?
    >
    > :-)
    >
    > Jenny


    Sounds like a bad thermocouple to me. A cheap part and easy to replace.

    Look at a parts diagram of your oven.
    LZ

  2. #2
    Technobarbarian
    Guest Technobarbarian's Avatar

    Default RV: New Magic Chef Oven Won't Light

    "Jenny6833A" <Jenny6833A@........> wrote in message
    news:11bfa652-c3c5-4394-985e-245c6ffeb93e@v13g2000vbf..............com...
    > A few months ago, we had a new Magic Chef propane stove installed in
    > our RV. The oven was difficult to light from the very beginning. It
    > now won't light at all.
    >
    > Originally, I was told to
    >
    > 1) Turn the oven knob to the Pilot position.
    >
    > 2) Light my lighter.
    >
    > 3) Push the oven knob in and light the pilot light while continuing
    > to push in the knob.
    >
    > 4) Keep pressing on the knob for at least 15 seconds, then let go
    > of the knob. The pilot light would stay on.
    >
    > That didn't work in real life. As soon as I let go of the oven knob,
    > the pilot light went out. Both propane regulators are OK. I was then
    > told I needed to hold the oven knob longer because the new (non-
    > mercury) thermostat was slower in warming up. I was supposed to hold
    > the knob in for one minute. That, supposedly, was normal.
    >
    > However, in the days that followed, the pilot light would not stay on
    > when I let go of the oven knob after one minute. I gradually had to
    > hold the oven knob in longer and longer. Now, the pilot light won't
    > stay on after three minutes of pushing on the oven knob. The manual
    > is no help.
    >
    > Is my oven lighting procedure wrong?
    >
    > Is the thermostat faulty?
    >
    > Is the oven knob faulty?


    With a new oven it's unlikely that anything is faulty. You probably
    just need some minor adjustment. It could be that the end of the
    thermocouple that you're heating isn't properly positioned in the pilot
    flame. It could be that the pilot flame needs to be adjusted a bit larger.
    Since it's been sitting for awhile it's also possible that a bug has built a
    nest in your pilot assembly. Less likely, but possible--it could be the end
    of the thermocouple that screws into your thermostat is loose and not making
    proper electrical contact.

    The sort of oven you describe is something new. I only know of one
    other oven that was built with a thermocouple, and that was back in the
    '60's. It would be helpful if you posted the model number so I could look
    for more info on this oven.

    TB

  3. #3
    jerry.osage
    Guest jerry.osage's Avatar

    Default RV: New Magic Chef Oven Won't Light

    On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 20:33:36 -0700 (PDT), Jenny6833A
    <Jenny6833A@........> wrote:

    >A few months ago, we had a new Magic Chef propane stove installed in
    >our RV. The oven was difficult to light from the very beginning. It
    >now won't light at all.
    >
    >Originally, I was told to
    >
    >1) Turn the oven knob to the Pilot position.
    >
    >2) Light my lighter.
    >
    >3) Push the oven knob in and light the pilot light while continuing
    >to push in the knob.
    >
    >4) Keep pressing on the knob for at least 15 seconds, then let go
    >of the knob. The pilot light would stay on.
    >
    >That didn't work in real life. As soon as I let go of the oven knob,
    >the pilot light went out. Both propane regulators are OK. I was then
    >told I needed to hold the oven knob longer because the new (non-
    >mercury) thermostat was slower in warming up. I was supposed to hold
    >the knob in for one minute. That, supposedly, was normal.
    >
    >However, in the days that followed, the pilot light would not stay on
    >when I let go of the oven knob after one minute. I gradually had to
    >hold the oven knob in longer and longer. Now, the pilot light won't
    >stay on after three minutes of pushing on the oven knob. The manual
    >is no help.
    >
    >Is my oven lighting procedure wrong?
    >
    >Is the thermostat faulty?
    >
    >Is the oven knob faulty?
    >
    >:-)
    >
    >Jenny


    If the Pilot Flame is OK I vote for the Pilot Flame Thermocouple
    either being bad or it is not in the proper place.

    Is the Pilot Flame heating the end of the thermocouple? If so, is the
    other end of the thermocouple screwed in tight to the oven control?
    If so I'd suspect the Thermocouple.

    Jerry O.

  4. #4
    Lone Haranguer
    Guest Lone Haranguer's Avatar

    Default RV: New Magic Chef Oven Won't Light

    stan.birch@...........m wrote:
    > On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 20:33:36 -0700 (PDT), Jenny6833A<Jenny6833A@........> wrote:
    >
    >> A few months ago, we had a new Magic Chef propane stove installed in
    >> our RV. The oven was difficult to light from the very beginning. It
    >> now won't light at all.
    >>
    >> Originally, I was told to
    >>
    >> 1) Turn the oven knob to the Pilot position.
    >>
    >> 2) Light my lighter.
    >>
    >> 3) Push the oven knob in and light the pilot light while continuing
    >> to push in the knob.
    >>
    >> 4) Keep pressing on the knob for at least 15 seconds, then let go
    >> of the knob. The pilot light would stay on.
    >>
    >> That didn't work in real life. As soon as I let go of the oven knob,
    >> the pilot light went out.

    >
    > Haaar! I can tell that none of your well intentioned respondents are avid oven
    > users, or have ever used one of these contraptions. :-) We use ours all the
    > time; and attempting to light it your way would take forever!
    >
    > So . . . what to do? Before trying to light it,
    >
    > 1. FIRST, turn your oven knob up to 350 degrees;
    >
    > 2. THEN push the knob in to light the pilot.
    >
    > And if my recollection is correct (like . . I don't remember what I did
    > yesterday), when the thermocouple reaches sufficient temperature, the main
    > burner will come on, and you can release the push-in-knob thingy. I haven't done
    > this in a few months, but turning up the oven temperature knob, makes it light a
    > whole lot faster than attempting to just light the pilot!
    >
    > You are not the only one who has experienced this problem.
    >

    Let us know when you reach orbit.
    LZ

  5. #5
    Technobarbarian
    Guest Technobarbarian's Avatar

    Default RV: New Magic Chef Oven Won't Light

    "Jenny6833A" <Jenny6833A@........> wrote in message
    news:34427ab4-7e2f-4a8c-8916-d351823741a0@v13g2000vbf..............com...
    > Hmmmm. Things get fishier and fishier.
    >
    > I hadn't tried the oven in over a week. I set out to demo the problem
    > one more time for Handy Husband, using the .... Procedure, and all
    > worked perfectly after the pilot had been on for no more than 30
    > seconds.
    >
    > [The .... Procedure, named for a bare friend named ...., is to get the
    > pilot lit with the knob depressed, and with the knob still depressed,
    > turn the knob enough to make the oven light. Only after the oven is
    > fully on, turn the knob back to pilot which turns off the oven but
    > leaves the pilot on.]
    >
    > So, I have no idea what's going on.


    This would indicate that either the thermocouple isn't getting quite
    hot enough with the pilot alone or the thermocouple is weak.
    >
    > Here's a list of the possible causes from the above responses and a
    > careful rereading of the operation and installation manuals.
    >
    > 1. Oven Pilot Needs Adjustment: Per the manuals, there is no way to
    > adjust the pilot. It's factory preset, and that's that.


    A tech can adjust it for you by making the pilot orifice hole a tiny
    bit bigger. It's not a DIY job. It requires a special tool and a delicate
    touch.
    >
    > 2. End of Thermocouple Not Properly Positioned in Flame: It appears
    > to be OK, although the problem of depth perception in a dark space
    > makes that judgment a bit iffy. The pilot _does_ stay on sometimes,
    > which also casts doubt on that hypothesis. In addition, there's no
    > (obvious) adjustment that wouldn't involve disconnecting the LP line,
    > removing the innards, and bending something.


    Sometimes bending something a little bit is the solution. An
    experienced tech would know when and where to do this.
    >
    > 3. Bug Nest in LP Line: This seems unlikely, because everything
    > _does_ work fine _sometimes_.


    Sometimes a small spider's nest will cause partial blockage. For some
    reason spiders seem to like pilot assemblies. Probably because it's clean
    and dark.
    >
    > 4. Thermocouple Not Fully Screwed In: We can get a hand on the
    > thing, and it doesn't move or twist in any direction. There's a
    > knurled fitting that we'll (try to) loosen, then fiddle the
    > thermocouple and retighten, if we continue to have problems.


    From what you've said I don't think this is the problem. On an older
    thermocouple that end of it can become corroded, which will result in a poor
    electrical connection at that point, but that isn't likely to be your
    problem.
    >
    > 5. Bad Thermocouple: Perhaps it's intermittent, if thermocouples can
    > be intermittent.


    Perhaps, thermocouples can be weak or intermittent instead of just
    plain dead, but with a newer oven I'd still bet it just isn't getting quite
    hot enough
    >
    > 6. Bad Regulator: Both were checked and pronounced OK in late
    > November, when the problem first arose.


    Nope, not likely to be your problem.
    >
    > 7. Air Shutter Needs Adjustment: The installation manual says it's
    > factory preset, and doesn't need adjustment except perhaps at high
    > elevations. We're only at 2100 feet, which doesn't seem to qualify.
    > We'd fiddle with that if we could find it, but we see nothing in there
    > that looks like an air shutter and nothing that looks adjustable.
    > But, hey, what do we know?


    Definitely not your problem. The air shutter will be at the end of the
    burner tube closest to where the gas enters the burner. Too little air and
    your propane won't burn efficiently. You'll get a yellow flame and it will
    produce soot. Too much air and the flame will tend to lift off of the burner
    tube. It can even blow the flame out. A tech will open the shutter just to
    the point where you don't see yellow in the flame. The air shutter won't
    affect the operation of your pilot flame or thermocouple.
    >
    >
    > Question: We did the successful pilot lighting about an hour after we
    > filled the propane tank. It went from 3/8 full to better than 7/8.
    > Could this make a difference?


    No, it was probably just a coincidence.
    >
    >
    > For TB: Yes, mercury thermostats can no longer be had. Ours went bad
    > after nine years. After much wailing and cussing, we had no choice
    > but to replace the stove. Like for $400! The new Magic Chef is NOT an
    > improvement as regards the oven, and NOT as regards other features as
    > well. I could live with the other differences if the oven lit
    > reliably, but I've come to hate the damn thing. In retrospect, we
    > should have searched the junk yards for a used mercury thermostat.


    Yeah, but it's not Magic Chef's fault. You'll see the same problems
    with any oven that uses a thermocouple, which is why the mercury switch
    ovens have been around for decades.

    TB

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