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Thread: Chevy 2.2 Timing chain

  1. #1
    Guest shiden_kai's Avatar

    Default Chevy 2.2 Timing chain

    > Since the truck is dead, grief is relative. Its Not turning over with
    > the proper compression sound. A little on line research shows that its
    > not uncommon for the chain tensioner on 2.2 to go bad on these and
    > possibly cause the chain to jump teeth. Got it towed by a buddy and i
    > will tear into it next week. I am hoping if it is just a jump of a few
    > teeth that there is no valve damage. I did not hear any mechanical
    > noise when it quit. Or when I cranked it after the fact.
    > I have heard noise in the front of the engine for awhile.

    You may find that chain is broken. I've seen a few of these engines
    where the tensioner goes sideways and things get jammed up and
    the chain gets broken.

    > Now the task is trying to figure out how to get it apart. I do have
    > the shop manual now. Hopefully standard pullers will allow me to remove
    > the crank pulley and the crank pulley mount flange.

    Yes, no big deal really.

    > The timing chain cover seems to bolt to the oil pan.
    > (the shop manual shows two lower bolts into the oil pan)
    > The manual does not say specifically if the oil pan has to come off or
    > not. Also, the tensioner is an issue. Is the OEM any better than an
    > after market or des it matter? Surely Ian would know about this and
    > shed some light on the situation.

    You don't have to take off the oil pan. The seal on the front cover to
    the oil pan is RTV, so once you've cleaned all the old RTV off, and
    have cleaned both the pan surface and the front cover surface so that
    they are "clean and dry", you can simply lay down a good bead of
    RTV on the pan surface and then put the front cover in place.

    I seem to remember that the tensioner on this engine has been updated.
    I've used aftermarket ones years ago on the same basic engine, and they
    ended up coming apart in weeks.

    Oh, the front timing cover seal does require a special tool to get into
    the front cover properly when the front cover is still attached to
    the engine, but if you have the front cover off, you ought to be able
    to find something that is the correct diameter to use as an installer.


  2. #2
    Guest shiden_kai's Avatar

    Default Chevy 2.2 Timing chain

    > Thank you so much for the response. I knew if anyone here was
    > knowledgeable about it that you should know. Now, your comment
    > about the tensioner has got me thinking. The after market ones
    > are around $20. I have not looked at one yet. There was another
    > post I found on Google about a guy who said he had tensioners go
    > bad ever 3000 to 5000 miles and it drove him nuts. Could this
    > be the issue with the aftermarket tensioners being ....?

    Probably...I never had any luck with them and went back to
    just using the GM stuff. I can't remember why I went with the
    aftermarket stuff, as I'm usually not into that. Probably had
    a cheap friend on my hands (grin).

    > Talked to my brother in law who talked to his friend who does
    > GM work and he seemed to think that most of the time only the
    > top cam gear and chain need to be replaced (and tensioner).
    > Do you think after market parts are OK for the chain and cam gear?

    Oh yeah...the chain and gears seem to be fine even if they are
    aftermarket. I'd agree too about the crank sprocket...unless you
    can feel marks in it from the chain...I wouldn't bother changing it.

    > He also said he has seen some 2.2's with holes in the pistons and
    > bent valves. IN the units you have seen, how common is this?

    Haven't seen that....but my advice would be to install a new chain
    and tensioner and before you even put the front cover back on....do
    a compression test. This will tell you right away if you bent any
    valves. This is what I do so I don't waste my time and the customers
    money putting the engine all back together again.


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