First Time on Safari to Africa Questions

Hello to all. My wife and I are contemplating a safari to trip to
Africa this coming year. This will be our first time there. I've done
some reading in the newsgroup and the overwhelming response seems to be
to visit either Kenya and/or Tanzania for the first time. I had
originally planned on visiting South Africa, renting a car and going to
Kruger and Hluhluwe-Umfolozi but now I am not so sure. Some of my basic
parameters for putting together this trip are:

1. I will spend between 9 - 12 days in country excluding travel days
from the US and back..

2. I personally dislike tours, have never used one although I realize
that independent travel to game parks while possible may be self
defeating. Without knowledge of animal behavior and how to approach, I
may essentially be driving around for a week and spending a lot of
money to do so.

3. I have no desire to be on a bus with 8 -10 people looking through a
small window and constantly driving around. I suspect that in order to
fully experience the parks that one must be patient and wait for things
to develop. I suspect that I will not get that on a typical safari
minivan.

4. I am not looking for this to be a photography trip per se. Being a
photographer myself, I will use a specialized photography photo safari
trip at a later date for that. This trip is designed for both my wife
and I to enjoy and savor.

5. I do not necessarily need 5 star luxury surroundings but we are not
interested in camping out in a small tents. Tented permanent camps are
fine.

My preliminary questions are:

1. Is it advisable to use a tour company the first time around? What
do I gain or miss by doing so?

2. Where does one find reputable companies to deal with?

3. Is it possible to combine self touring on several days and hire
guides/driver for other days? Kruger has options like this where you
can pay to go a game drive.

4. Would I better off spending several days on a private reserve?
Although it costs significantly more I might have a better experience.

5. Putting US State Department hyperbole aside, is there any validity
to their concerns about Kenya? Curious to here feedback from other
Americans who have traveled there within the last year.

Any information would be greatly appreciated and I will certainly ask
more pointed questions as I research further.
Thank you in advance for your responses.

--Joel Turner

>
I havent been to South Africa but from what I've read I think that if you
want to drive yourself then that will be your best bet.

> My preliminary questions are:
>
> 1. Is it advisable to use a tour company the first time around? What
> do I gain or miss by doing so?
A good tour company will not cram lots of people into a mini-bus - you will
each have a window seat. You will have a qualified driver/guide who will
know where to go to find the animals/birds and know how to get you into the
best positions to see them. You can spend your time looking at the animals
and not the road/map. Extra eyes in the van may well mean you see more. You
will have the back-up of the organisation to sort things out if anything
goes wrong/get replacement vehicle for example.
You can also have the option of your own vehicle and your own driver/guide.
My own experience of this in Tanzania was not that good but it obvioulsy
gives you much more flexibility. I think I prefer to fly from lodge/camp to
camp and use the services of the local experts at each camp.
Lodges and camps vary tremendously - some tented camps are more luxurious
than the lodges, and (usually) a lot smaller.
>
> 2. Where does one find reputable companies to deal with?
Dont know about USA; Kuoni is a very well-known and good company for
first-time trips to East Africa (they will also do 'tailor-made';
Abercrombie and Kent is expensive but reputable. Sunvil will do
tailor-made - dont think they do Kenya but they do Tanzania.
>

--
Rita Daggett

>

Marc Lurie wrote:

> Hi Joel,
>
> I might offend several regulars to this NG with what I'm about to say,
> but I've got a thick skin, and I can handle the repercussions :-)

Marc, as you may have noticed, we are US safari operators with a
home in South Africa.. and since most of our business has been in
east Africa, I can speak from our experiences in both parts of
the continent.

> 4) I believe that South Africans are, in general, more friendly than
> the east Africans that you're likely to meet.

Not more friendly.. really warm and friendly, yes.
But the Kenyan people, particularly, are the best we see in
the tourism industry in making our clients feel welcome.

> 5) On this point I stand to be corrected, but I think that South
> Africa will be cheaper to visit than Tanzania or Kenya.

In the days when we got 10 rand for a dollar, certainly. But not now.
Prices have remained stable in east Africa, while prices (to anyone
spending US dollars) have risen dramatically in South Africa.
The actual exchange rate today for tourists at an exchange window
in South Africa is (12/7) is 5.5 rand to the US dollar, and a commission
is then deducted from that.

> My experience is that accomodation and meals of similar quality
> are 50% to 100% more expensive in East Africa than in South Africa..
> eg. you can stay at a 5-star hotel in Johannesburg for the same price
> as a 3-star in Nairobi.

I wish this was still the case, but (see above) exchange rates
have changed the landscape. The rates to me (as a tour
operator) are $ 160 per night more for the Grace in
Rosebank, and $90 per night more for the Sandton Sun,
than the rates I pay for the Serena in Nairobi.
You have to step down to the Crowne Plaza in Sandton
to find an equivalent rate to the Nairobi Serena.

On the other hand, restaurants in South Africa are still great
values and amazing experiences for those of us from the US.
No 'cookie-cutter' meals at most of them. Wonderful food
both in the preparation and the presentation.

Joel wrote:

> I realize that independent travel to game parks while possible may be
> self
> defeating. Without knowledge of animal behavior and how to approach, I
> may essentially be driving around for a week and spending a lot of
> money to do so.

Especially true of self-drive safaris in east Africa. Parks are big, roads

are generally not marked, and you could waste time just trying to
find your way around.

> I have no desire to be on a bus with 8 -10 people looking through a
> small window and constantly driving around. I suspect that in order to
> fully experience the parks that one must be patient and wait for things
> to develop. I suspect that I will not get that on a typical safari
> minivan.

It really does depend on the guide/driver for your vehicle. We offer
private safaris where the clients have the vehicle and guide to
themselves and he is then free of the need to please everyone.
In any case, you shouldn't expect more than 6 travelers in any
vehicle, and all will have window seats. And the roof pops up
for even better viewing.

> My preliminary questions are:
>
> 1. Is it advisable to use a tour company the first time around? What
> do I gain or miss by doing so?

I say yes. You gain efficiency, for one thing. You give up the personal
responsibility for having things turn out right and give that job to
people who do it every day of their lives and do it well.
You can expect to make better use of your money as well. They provide
all your lodging and transportation at costs no more (and quite likely
less) than you can get buying all services, etc., yourself.
What do you miss? Some of the freedom we all enjoy of having your
own vehicle (especially true in South Africa).

> 2. Where does one find reputable companies to deal with?

A travel agent who has actual experience in safaris.

> 3. Is it possible to combine self touring on several days and hire
> guides/driver for other days? Kruger has options like this where you
> can pay to go a game drive.

Yes, and this would be the absolute best approach if you do
pick South Africa.

> 4. Would I better off spending several days on a private reserve?
> Although it costs significantly more I might have a better experience.

Hard to say. Tour operators in South Africa usually use private reserves
because accommodations inside Kruger that (they consider to be) are of
an international standard (posh) are limited. But they are expensive.
In east Africa, you will be doing your safari in government owned
or operated reserves, so this is not relevant.

> 5. Putting US State Department hyperbole aside, is there any validity
> to their concerns about Kenya? Curious to here feedback from other
> Americans who have traveled there within the last year.

Our September group in Kenya had one of the best experiences any
of our clients have ever had. Same true for those who went earlier
in 2004. Not a whisper of anxiety, uneasiness.
Year after year, travelers to Kenya (not just ours) come back wishing
they hadn't had to leave.

I just want to add that I would avoid those big USA and UK tourist
concerns with their packaged tours.

It is sad to see people in these packaged safari-taxis, driving from
lodge to lodge on the same tour that departs every Monday for 7-14 days
- visiting the same parks and lodges regardless of season and animal
patterns.

Every country in Africa has many reputable local companies and many
have been in business forever. Most are now completely capable of
handling your safaris without the added expense of middlemen. Many take
credit cards and all of them accept wires. All will be happy to
customize your trip.

If you are worried about your money, please consider the fact that many
ask for only a small deposit and you can pay the balance upon arrival
with traveler checks! Go with a registered company in the country of
interest and you will be fine. At the very least, most of your money
will end up in the country where it is needed most. The UK and the USA
don't need your safari money.

Eben..I particularly liked your approach and this is how I primarily
plan trips in the US and abroad. For whatever reason I'm getting
intimidated by the thought of putting this together. Let's say I take
your approach and I pick East Africa/Kenya and settle on three parks
for a 2 week period. Do you have names or web sites of some local
companies that do private safaris like you describe? How does this
work with staying at a lodge/camp? Do they meet you there or do they
arrange the whole thing for you? For example, I decided to stay at
the Mara Serena Lodge for three days which costs $250 per night (this
is an example). They do their own morning game drives (probably 6
people in a Land Rover). I want to have a vehicle to myself for the
day where the guide will speak English, point out game, accommodate us
for photography, etc.. I think this is essentially what you describe.
I'd MUCH prefer to do it this way assuming the costs do not get out of
hand.

For travel purposes, where or whom can I contact to arrange flights
between camps if I choose not to drive between them

Terry.. Can you explain further about safety. Do you mean in Nairobi
itself or traveling on the roads?

--Joel

Joel

Can you give us an idea (month) of when you can travel?

We need to narrow down the country and parks a bit before I can be more
specific. The questions you ask vary considerably between parks and
lodges/camps. For example, I will certainly fly-in to Kleins Camp,
Grumeti Camp or the Governors Camps and depend on them to drive me.
They have open vehicles which is great and their guides know the areas
around the camps best. And they often put only 2 people in a vehicle -
no need to pay surcharges.

But I will not do this at many other lodges. Lodge vehicles are often
"out of commission" with various excuses so they can fill each with
tourists! It will be impossible to get exclusive use - even if you
reserved months ahead. The 2004 jul-sep period in Tanzania was a zoo.
Serena Hotels were overbooked and with stranded tourists everywhere
their vehicles were tied up while they drove people around - not to see
wildlife, but to find places to stay!

Some of the better tented camps have their own safari operations and
will pick you up and drive you around the parks just like independent
outfitters. During peak times, this may be the only way to get you into
their camps at prime locations!

I can pretty much travel when I want. I understand that the migration
happens in July-Sep in Tanzania but it is also peak season with many
tourists. I'd be willing off travel off peak. Towards the end of
summer/beginning of fall would be ideal though.

--Joel
eben.schoeman@ wrote:
> Joel
>
> Can you give us an idea (month) of when you can travel?
>
> We need to narrow down the country and parks a bit before I can be
more
> specific. The questions you ask vary considerably between parks and
> lodges/camps. For example, I will certainly fly-in to Kleins Camp,
> Grumeti Camp or the Governors Camps and depend on them to drive me.
> They have open vehicles which is great and their guides know the
areas
> around the camps best. And they often put only 2 people in a vehicle
-
> no need to pay surcharges.
>
> But I will not do this at many other lodges. Lodge vehicles are often
> "out of commission" with various excuses so they can fill each with
> tourists! It will be impossible to get exclusive use - even if you
> reserved months ahead. The 2004 jul-sep period in Tanzania was a
zoo.
> Serena Hotels were overbooked and with stranded tourists everywhere
> their vehicles were tied up while they drove people around - not to
see
> wildlife, but to find places to stay!
>
> Some of the better tented camps have their own safari operations and
> will pick you up and drive you around the parks just like independent
> outfitters. During peak times, this may be the only way to get you
into
> their camps at prime locations!

Ok, September/October is Kenya time!

Your main focus must be the Masai Mara. 3 groups of Wildebeests and
zebra join together to form a huge concentration of wildlife. When I
close my eyes and envision Africa, this is about as close as it gets!

The resident herds, the Serengeti herds from the south and the Loita
herds from the north (in total close to a million) are now milling
around, going back and forth across the Mara River where the crocodiles
await in the water, the predators watch on the banks and the hippos
relax with little regard for the life and dead struggles around them.

By early Oct, the herds are starting to split. The Loita herds are
moving north and north east, and the Serengeti herds are moving towards
the south, staying more or less on the western half of the park.

This time of year, I would fly in from Nairobi to the Mara and stay at
the Governors camps or Mara Serena (cheaper) - basically as close to
the Mara river as I can. Kichwa, Olenana and others are good options
too (they are outside the park). These are fly-in safaris using the
camp driver/guides. At Little Governors, the hippos feed next to your
tent at night, and elephants walse through in the afternoon during
their swamp visit.

Would spend at least 3 nights, maybe splitting my time between two
camps to try and see the few leopards.

During the day, it's simply matter of finding a hill top and wait.
Something will happen before too long. Watch for hyenas (they are my
favourite) - always up to something. The cheetahs to the north of the
Mara will hunt daily. The lions will rest, but in the afternoons they
will start to position themselves - just look where the Big Cat Diary
vehicles are going!

And in the heat of the day, listen to the radio or watch the large
herds on the move - a crossing may be eminent. It is hard to watch, yet
you cannot turn away. Nature is doing its thing in brutal ways every
day.

After 4 or 5 days, what do you do for an encore? Go for something
different. Samburu to see the gerenuks and reticulated giraffes or Lake
Nakuru if you did not see leopard earlier and for rhino, flamingos
Rothschild's giraffes.

I would probably do the Mara at the end of my trip - it is a tough act
to follow.

What do you think?

The lions will rest, but in the afternoons they
> will start to position themselves - just look where the Big Cat Diary
> vehicles are going!
Talking of which - there was a programme on BBC TV recently about lions
being in trouble, and they quoted the famous Mara/Big Cat Diary prides as
examples. I cant recall the details now, but it was to do with pride
structures breaking down with no mature males to take them over.
When we were in Zambia last year we were told that the lions in Lower
Zambezi were 'in a mess' - there were too many young males; few females, and
if the females had cubs, one of the males would kill them, as there wasnt a
strong enough 'pride male' to defend them.
--
Rita Daggett

>